Orange in Laos

From an internet cafe in Luang Prabrang, I am writing as monks clad in bright orange robes and backpackers donning much less are strolling by outside. The town is sandwiched between the mighty Mekong and a much smaller river, and has the appearance of a place that was immensely peaceful before travelers from all corners of the world added it to their list. (Still a very peaceful place, but I imagine with a very different ambiance 10 years ago.)

We arrived here on Wednesday, needing some peace and quiet after our adventures in northern Viet Nam. Thrilled to be able to sleep in after many days of rising by 5:30, we were slightly exasperated when the family whose guesthouse we are staying at told us that something interesting was going on at, yes, 5:30 the next morning. But as most things that happen at 5:30 am, this was well worth another early wake-up.

Families from around the town lined up along the side of the road, each having prepared a small edible treat to share with the Buddhist monks. Resting on their haunches, family members doled out a sweet rice treat wrapped in banana leaf or a sesame cookie to each of the monks that came passing by in a procession, on their way to a wat (temple) where they will spend the next (rainy) months studying, meditating, etc. Each monk, shoeless and wearing only his long orange robe, carried a metal container that was filled up by these families, presumably with food that would help them get through the next months -- a kind of alms-giving for local families. But others lined up along the street, mostly young, slightly dirtier boys, had empty baskets themselves, and some of the monks would take from their containers and help fill these boys' empty baskets. Though no one explained this to us, it appeared to be some small redistribution on the part of the monks, making sure that those less fortunate had something to eat as well. The child in me couldn't stop thinking of trick-or-treating, but it was clear that we were witnessing a very solemn act of great spiritual importance to these families. It was an honor to watch the procession and see a glimpse of the relationship between the monks scattered throughout the country's wats and the local community.

Exploring the old royal palace and some of Luang Prabang's environs today before heading further north tomorrow.